Monday, 15 November 2010

Sun, Nov 14 - Oxford with Susan

The New Tricks download to BBC iPlayer finished overnight. Purled a few rows. Toasted a couple hot cross buns (bought at M&S yesterday) for breakfast. Took a quick bath while Susan's wash swished and sloshed.

Bakerloo line to Baker Street. Most other tube lines are disrupted for engineering work. The Jubilee is down completely. Stood in the light rain on Gloucester Road waiting for the X90 to Oxford to rumble up the road from Victoria via Marble Arch.

I might have wanted to be a vet when I was a kid, like Charlie. I speculate the difference between us lies in the 'wanting' rather than the 'vet'. 'Wanting', to me (even then), is a considered deliberate state -- not a passing fancy. And somewhere in there is the thought one can only 'want' what one CAN have. If one cannot have it (by virtue of who one 'is', or one's specific circumstances) even if one wanted it, then there is something flawed about the state of 'wanting' it. (Maybe 'wanting' becomes 'day-dreaming', or something). So 'I want to be a good girl' or 'I want a pair  classic sandals' are 'want-able' things, whereas 'I want a pair of $1000 Nikes' or 'I want to be a vet' are not. Or in the case of the vet, are so 'un-knowable' (I do know there are a lot of things that go into becoming -- and being -- a vet, but I don't know what they all are, so am not in a position to evaluate whether or not they are things I can/could have or be or do, and am hence not in a position to 'want' -- or not want -- them).

Talked and purled the ride to Oxford. Arriving home for Susan is the descent down the hill on the edge of the centre of town. We got off at the stop on the High Street. It was still raining lightly.

I'm looking at everybody wearing knits -- to see whether I like them and would I like to knit them. I'm drawn into Brora. Beautiful cashmere knits. The 'ribbed shawl bolero' in 'cocoa' (ie dark brown) feels (and looks) especially good; I like the way the diagonally cut front edge still falls nicely when you pull the cardigan closed over you. The 'ribbed shawl cardigan' in 'cassis' (ie purple) is a little more chic, it's true -- but the bottom edge looks messy when you pull it around you. The 'aran knit coat' has a nice neck/breast line, but the bottom half is too chunky. And the 'long ribbed cardigan' is sleek, but the v-neck line is boring. Oh and - the tweed biker jacket is very cool, a tight knit with a diagonal zipper and overlapping collar. Susan liked the 'moss stitch bolero' -- a little jacket-y thing that rides above the waist and looks nice over a dress.

Susan showed me the Covered Market off High Street, and the store Fasta Pasta where she bought her first fresh pasta (to cook) at the age of 18. Got a crepe (with cheese and mushroom) before we exited and made our way over to the back entrance of the Ashmolean for tea in the roof-top restaurant. The restaurant was so busy that while they typically do start serving tea at 3pm, they weren't today. We took the refurbished stairs down the new light-well, and popped into the European Galleries for a look at the hand-painted pottery from Perugia and Deruta. Susan likes the plates with a central figure and a decorative pattern around the edges. I like the more geometric patterns produced in Delft. And the Minoan octopus on the cover of the brochure.

Continue over to the Pitt-Rivers Museum since it's due to close at 4.30pm. There are massive tree roots on low platforms displayed outside. We pass through the dinosaurs and stuffed birds of the Natural History museum main hall where children are busy cutting out and coloring butterfly shapes. The Pitt Rivers collection of odds and ends, different continents and countries all jumbled together in one case but proving all the more enlightening for it, lies behind. A male 'docent' of Persian aspect and accent (turns out he is from 'Jerusalem') points out a wart cure involving a slug impaled on a thorn to us, from Shropshire. And then he just carries on, telling us the story of this and that. We haven't seen the Shrunken Heads? Why, follow me. The skull is removed and all the gray matter and subcutaneous fat scraped out, then the face is re-shaped and the sown-up head is dipped in a liquid that hardens it. The process takes three days, and is reserved for enemies. Revered members of the community get to keep their skulls. The shrunken heads confer on the wearer the strength of the slain enemy, and also keep the dead enemy's spirit at bay. Our Palestinian friend also made sure we saw the Hawaiian headman's cloak made up of 100s of 1000s of tiny feathers; an amazing feat, and quite beautiful. He had studied law but either didn't want to continue in it or the recession precluded finding a job, and he was working at the museum as a stop-gap measure. He seemed far too knowledgeable about the artifacts to be doing it purely on a whim.

Also visited the Special Exhibit on Wilfred Thesinger, 'greatest British explorer of the 20th century'. And he took lots of photos and was a travel writer. Was born in Addis Ababa, returned to the UK for his education, but pined for East Africa and returned there for the coronation of Ras Tafari / Emperor Haile Salassi and remained as part of the Political Service, but more importantly to camp and hunt and explore.

Had hot chocolate and a brownie at the original Maison Blanc on (or just off) St Giles, heading North towards Somerville College. Susan used to bike down St Giles to town. Maison Blanc is the pet project of the wife of the master chef Raymond Blanc, and was started in Oxford in 1981. Susan likes the decor -- the black and white photographs of Paris in golden frames, the taupe banquets along one wall, the blue chair covers (though she'd use the egg-shell blue of her agenda), the light (in this window-less room). Something gave me indigestion as we walked back to town; it might have been the water.

Walked back to town along back streets, passing the Radcliffe Camera and cutting through the Oxford Union. It had long stopped raining and a crescent moon was shining. Walked with Susan down St Aldates to the bridge then doubled back for Evensong at Christ's Church. A choir of 14 small boys and 16 university students, singing the most ethereal harmonising 'staggered' lines (...I don't have the words to describe the musical forms...). The reading from the Old Testament was Daniel in the Lions' Den (really?Darius decreed that all should worship Daniel's god after he emerged unscathed from the den?) and from the New Testament was something from Matthew, something about Jesus doing the impossible so we should too, I can't quite remember.

The X90 bus passed me as I was just 100m from the stop, so I made a mad dash for it. Purled some more but then encountered a dropped stitch which I tried to fix but couldn't, so figured I'd wait for Susan's assistance.

Got my first 'ready-meal' from Sainsbury's (mince in sauce with veggies and potatoes) and watched the New Tricks download.

Dettie skyped. Told me how she's shrunk 9cm and her trousers don't fit so she has to take them up. In the x-rays (or scan?) you can see how her discs are wafer thin. She's in pain if she stays in one position for too long. She has a visit to the neurologist scheduled for tomorrow. Wim, meanwhile, isn't doing so well. He can't remember or do anything, because of the medication he's being given to 'subdue his emotions.' 'They don't want to deal with anyone troublesome, so they just sedate them.' It turns them into vegetables. So Dettie insisted they stop giving Wim the medication, and the two of them were able to go to the garden centre together yesterday. Wim and Dettie will be celebrating Sinterklaas with Gabrielle and Mariette on Dec 5th. 'The kids don't want to do it anymore; they find it boring. But for us it's gezellig.' Dettie asked whether I'd be spending Christmas with the family in the US, and when I told her I was still in London, asked when I'd be coming to Holland and reminded me to be sure to tell her when I arrived and to feel welcome to stay with her.

Vernon had emailed to say Glide today had been a 'watershed.' I wonder what he means by that. Watershed - and he feels whole-heartedly reunited with the fold... or Watershed - and he's never going to go back there?  Jim emailed to suggest we skype, but we missed each other. Marie emailed to say she and Robert are quite broken-up now (as of this last week), and that Kate hasn't shown any sign of life - or welcome - from London.

Fell asleep watching New Tricks. Woke up around 1.30am, in time to welcome Susan home (and give her my knitting to fix - required taking out a few rows, which it was good to see done).

Sat, Nov 13

Fri, Nov 12 -

Thurs, Nov 11

Wednesday, 10 November 2010

Wed, Nov 10 - Charlie: Anchor & Hope, World Wildlife Photography at V&A

8.15am Woke up. Susan out the door by 8.30am. Cold and sunny out.

8.40am Thought I'd blog for an hour (a good habit to get into: blog for an hour right after Susan leaves in the morning) and then bake some biscotti before meeting with Charlie for lunch at the Anchor & Hope.

As it turned out, I updated 'Writing on the Road' blog until noon. I'm nominally caught up -- I have an entry for every date, even if it's only a title/summary of the day's activities. I'd like to add a photo per day. It makes it so much more alive. It would be nice to tell some more stories as well... and fill in some memory gaps (it's an odd feeling, drawing a complete blank on a whole morning or afternoon).

***

Lunch with Charlie at Anchor & Hope -- venison & pate & red endive salad. Followed by walk along the Thames in golden afternoon light to Westminster tube. Came across dissolving Student March, leaking across the bridge onto the Southbank from Parliament Square or Trafalgar Square or somewhere.
Charlie's last two years:
- Mali in Jan 2009
- 6 month contract with Fox-Pitt (implementing or managing a FactSet Portfolio Analysis project, I think)
- Sept 6, 2009: Embarked on John O'Groats to Lands End walk (the 1,100 miles JOGLE). Made it to Edinburgh before her leg started hurting badly and the doctor told her she probably had a stress facture, which wouldn't necessarily show up on an x-ray anyway, and to stay off it.
- Returned home to figure out what to do instead
- Trip to Afghanistan
- Family geneaology
- Trip to Kyrgystan?
- April 2010: Picked up walk in Edinburgh
- Nov 15, 2010: Starts job with head-hunter

***

World Wildlife Photography exhibit at the V&A

Tues, Nov 9 - Alexandria's for Lunch & Chat & Youtube

Rainy day. Bucketing down.

Alec's B'day. Watched the videos he's posted for October on Pampoosh website. Very cute ones of Felix feeding Gideon, Gideon falling asleep, Alec playing hide and seek with a stationary Gideon, Talia reading 'The Monster at the End of the Book' to Felix.

10.15am Caught the 172 to the Old Kent Road to the Post Office Depot to pick up the package that couldn't be delivered to me. Went several stops beyond, to the PC World. You can't return (or even exchange) switches to PC World either, once you've opened the box. Bloody hell. Right, I'll give calling BT one last try, to get Susan's wireless working on my laptop. / Walked the 4 or so stops down past the ASDA and the B&Q and the Lidl and the Curry's in the rain, to Mandela Way and the Post Office depot. The woman behind the counter didn't even check my ID, just passed me the box. Only noticed it was ripped open after I'd left the office. Couldn't be bothered to go back to complain about it; didn't really think there was anything in the box that would have fallen out, anyway. It's the box I'd mailed to myself from Holland (gosh that took a long time to arrive! more than a month!) with papers of Mom and Huub's.

12.33pm Caught the slow train to Twickenham for lunch with Alexandria and Ben


16.41 Caught the fast train via Richmond to Waterloo

18-19.00 On the phone with Vicky at BT, trying to get the wireless to work -- with success!

Skyped with Paul

Printed out biscotti recipes with an eye to baking tonight

Susan home around 8.30pm. Dinner of Sardinian pasta-lettes with delicious almond pesto from Gelupo.

Skyped with Vernon -- on wireless, in the bedroom!

22.30 Too late to start on biscotti... fell asleep reading 'Exterminate all the brutes' while Susan took a bath and did some work

Mon, Nov 8 - ??morn?? - Ian's for US taxes, Spinning Camden

Morn?

Ian's from 3pm-5pm... finally did pull up tax forms on the computer and started filling them in.

6.30pm Spinning at Camden

Dinner = spinach + beetroot + walnut + blue cheese salad... Susan had already had liver and was on the verge of tackling work, but we got talking, and then I got skype IM-ing with Grant & Viola & Alec (all separately)

Sun, Nov 7 - Violet Christening & Tas, Artisan & Vine w Ian

Sat, Nov 6 - Lewes Buttercup Lunch, Train, Mediatheque (Prick Up Your Ears)

Fri, Nov 5 - Lewes for Bonfire Night

Thur, Nov 4 - Swimming at Oasis, James Turrell at Gagosian, Kings Cross Road

Morn? Eve?

Tube to Tottenham Court Road. Bought a packet of sushi rice at the Japanese store underneath Center Point (it now comes in a cardboard box; used to be a brick encased in plastic). The buildings being constructed opposite the church, extending to the north side of the Shaftesbury intersection, have been completed. Some shops are about to open at the ground level. The three (or four?) towers come in the colors of a construction worker's protection gear -- reflective orange, lime green, yellow. Seems like an inside joke to me.

There was a flyer announcing a charity bike ride in Malawai in July 2011 at the front desk at Oasis. Coincidence?

Got sent back inside by the North African looking lifeguard to take a shower. Put on my new Speedo swim cap, purchased in San Francisco to protect my head against the freezing cold of the Pacific. This is the first time I'm wearing it. Figure it'll be better for my (now long) hair not to get soaked in chlorine.

Swam a kilometre or so. Each length is 27.5m, I think. I did 5 laps (there-and-backs) of crawl, then 5 of breast stroke, then another 5 of crawl and another 5 of breast stroke. 20 laps in all, each lap is about 50m, so 1000m approx. I could swim more, I suppose. I'm getting tired after 1000m, but am by no means at my limit. It does get a bit boring. It takes about 1/2hr (a little less). I could put in an hour. Whaddya say? Maybe I'll work up to 25 laps next time. Then add one each time till I hit 30. We'll see.

Weren't they rennovating the changing rooms as I was leaving? They're as manky as ever. Especially the toilets.

Walked down New Oxford and then across uncharted territory to Britiannia Street and the Gagosian Gallery. Turned north up Bedford and hit Russell Square a little unexpectedly. Such a beautiful garden. And enjoyed by many. The leaves are turning and littering the ground. The fountain centre piece is still bubbling. The 'arbor' walkway is golden. Turned right at the Russell Square tube and passed Brunswick Place. Kept on straight, skirting sports fields, and came upon the Foundling Museum (aha!). There's a show on of snippets of textile from swaddling clothes that the Foundling Hospital sisters would keep as the only link between the abandoned infant and the mother. Passed a local community garde <find name> and felt happy the plot had been saved from office development, but was saddened by its under-use and under-lovedness (relative to Russell Square, for example). Maybe parks need to be thorough-fares so as to be re-charged by that energy of movement (rather than stagnating as eddies off the beaten track). Hmm. And then I headed north on Grays Inn Road to Britannia Street, and spotted the long-ish building on the north side of the street which must be the Gagosian, with a gaggle of girls in short skirts and berrets and ripped tights and boys with gel tousled hair in wool pea coats emerging.

James Turrell - matmos room, depth perception messed with, colors of the white ante room changing (to green yellow etc)

Walked down to Kings Cross Road to find the 45, and was drawn into Nevin's, a 'traiteur' opened in February with an ecclectic collection of Spanish and French and Italian goodies. Got talking to Ben, the co-founder, about the challenges. Then a young guy walked in with his computer, so stopped grilling Ben (seemed inappropriate to go on asking him personal questions about running his business), and got chatting to him. Studied International Development at SOAS but has been out for 2 years already and doesn't know what to do. Is keen on music and DJs. Compared music to art -- said he doesn't 'get' what's good in art; whereas with music, what's good gets danced to, and what isn't doesn't -- it's clear. Liked that reflection. Followed him to an old Italian deli close to Kings Cross (KC Continental -- like KC and the Sunshine Band...but not ;) where you can bring your own baguette and have meat cut into it for a sandwich -- for just GBP4! The owner still doesn't speak much English (after decades in London) and is partial to serving Italian speakers first. Smelled of parma ham. Lovely.

Caught the bus back home about 4.30pm & put my feet up...

?? Walk with Susan along Southbank in the evening?? Bumped into Vincent

Wed, Nov 3 - ??day??, i-to-i TEFL info, Southwark College Open House,

Still feeling blech.

Tube strike

Surfed the web regarding TEFL. Came across i-to-i, which offers a lot of on-line courses. They have a 10-question 'quiz' which is supposed to help you determine whether TEFL is for you -- and it does a good job of giving you a feel for what teaching entails -- what qualities a teacher needs (be flexible, open minded, able to think on your feet, etc), what a teacher's roles are (coach, manager, assessor, etc), elements of lesson planning, sample games for keeping learners awake and involved, and so on.

Determined to go to the Southwark College Open House at 4.30pm, then spinning with Tim at Waterloo at 6.30pm. Checked the website at about 4pm, and realized that there's another campus in Bermondsey, and that's where the Film/Photography and Engineering/Electrician stuff is taught; Waterloo has the Business Admin and EFL and Beauty School. / Walked down to the bus stop under the Stamford Street railway bridge (since the tube wasn't working) and missed a bus along the way...next one came shortly after 5pm, and then there were roadworks on Jamaica Road that slowed traffic to a crawl... so only got to the college around 5.30pm and was going to have to leave again before 6pm in order to get back for the spinning class at Waterloo at 6.30pm. / There was a queue for the Engineering tutors, so I asked to see the Art & Design folks first. Got talking to Toby, a fair haired chap with glasses (very faintly reminiscent of a Mr Skirrow with floppy hair) who teaches the Film course, and came to understand that the 'College' is for 16-19 year olds doing A-level work. Ah. Toby suggested I look at courses offered by the Documentary Film Group. Also talked to Kev, who teaches photography. He strongly suggested I look at 'Higher Education' courses rather than 'Further Education' courses (HE rather than FE) at the likes of Goldsmiths. Had some photos taken by a photo student (had been bombarded by the bright flashes of students horsing around in the 'studio' throughout my conversations with Toby and Kev), which Kev promised to send me along with info about his next course.

Caught a bus back fairly promptly, but only got to Stamford Street around 6.22pm, so I missed the spinning class. Probably just as well. Hadn't eaten all day. Felt I could manage a can of ravioli which I picked up at the Costcutters, and had that while Susan had her 'comfort fast food', baked beans & cottage cheese, and called candidates for the Human Rights Strategic Advisory Group <?>

Tues, Nov 2 - Unwell/Cramps

Did I stay in bed all day and read Crime & Punishment?

Crampy, or maybe the sushi last night wasn't particularly fresh, or maybe I've got the flu-bug Susan had last week, or maybe the sauna right after the heavy exercise wasn't a good idea...

Half thought I'd make it to Tim's spinning class at Covent Garden, and might have if it had been at 1.30pm instead of 1pm... but compulsive reading meant I'd be leaving too late to be sure of catching the start

Mon, Nov 1 - ??day??, Spinning Camden,

Getting my period...

6.30pm Spinning with Tim in Camden. He noticed I'd lost weight. Said I looked good from the waist down, but that my torso and arms were 'too thin'. 'I'm a personal trainer; I know.' Said he'd give me some upper body exercises to do if I got to his Tuesday mid-day class at Covent Garden a little early. / Sauna'ed and washed & blow-dried hair. / Ate a banana before class and after. Got handed a couple of coupons to Camden Soho by leafleters right outside, as I was going in. / Afterwards walked up Camden Road, past the Roundhouse, to Feng Sushi by Chalk Farm tube. Had some sushi. / Home about 9.30pm.

Sun, Oct 31 - Email, Stanford's, Westminster Abbey w Susan, Biscotti

Clocks Fall Back
Awoke 8am (new time). Read and dozed off. Dreams of Mom, and me saying I couldn’t get out of bed without a reason, and seeing Saj briefly who then disappeared with his crew. Awoke for real about 10am (11am old time). Susan in bed deciding which biscotti recipe to pursue. Prepared some granola + yoghurt + berries, and was deciding to go to St Paul’s when Susan said she’d been thinking of going to Westminster at 3pm, so said I’d do that with her instead. Leafed through the Lonely Planet West Africa ahead of returning it (along with the Chris Scott Sahara Overland guides). The ‘itineraries’ LP suggests include flying from Dakar to Accra, skipping Guinea, Sierra Leone, Liberia, Ivory Coast..hmm. Benin sounds quite nice. Togo was nice until it fell apart (when was Huub there, again? Before 1972, I expect…). Burkina Fasso has great people. Ghana would be worth a visit. Wren wants to drive to Benin. I don’t ‘see’ her buying a car (5x the price of a car in the UK) and driving there, personally…but that doesn’t mean she won’t manage to get there overland in some way…but my ‘not seeing’ HOW means I’m not so keen to ‘chance’ it. I can’t evaluate the odds. And my ‘gut’ is skeptical. I’m admittedly still ‘reeling’ from her backing out of driving from here to Mali.  I’m keeping the LP book on Volunteering and the one about Teaching ESL Abroad. Maybe I’ll pick up a book on East Africa – I’d somehow rather go and explore Ethiopia, Kenya, Tanzania, Rwanda, Uganda, Malawi than go to Mali again…even if Burkino Fasso and Benin were tacked on. Ama is in Addis, and Susan is keen to visit her as well. Dumi may still be in Malawi. I must email him to see how and what he’s doing. / Walked across Waterloo Bridge at gray noon, and stopped in at Malpin Electronics to see about a splitter for Susan’s Ethernet. Costs 20 quid for a 5-slot box, plus 5 each for two more cables; not worth it. / Continued up past the Lion King and through Covent Garden. Stopped in at the Outlet Store and Birdie’s (?) shoe store. Would like a ‘stoere’ mini skirt and some nice high boots; the fashion this year is all me, too bad I don’t want to be spending any money on clothes these days. / Stanford’s to return the West Africa books, and browse – East Africa, Ethiopia, Malawi (the latter two Bradt guides)…and some cycling stuff in the England section.  A guy (b 1983) biked around the world and wrote a book about it. Grew up on a farm and was home schooled (seems to be the way to go, to produce adventurous spirits), and first did cross-Scotland, then End to End, and in Uni decided that he wanted to go ‘round the world, spending about a year planning it and only getting sponsorship right at the last minute. His Mum was his logistics manager while he was on the road. Made me determine I want to have a multi-day bike ride in my life this coming year (Oct to Oct). Maybe Italy or France. Who’d be up for doing that with me? Or maybe Malawi. Dumi is big into his biking. How about a ride for charity around Lake Malawi, to raise money for people affected by AIDS? / Byron called and I reeled off the books I’ve been reading – Great Gatsby, Catcher in the Rye, To Kill a Mocking Bird… and now Crime & Punishment. He’d read GG thoroughly with Nelson, and said Daryl had gotten into emulating Holden and Byron had had to hide the book. Byron is going to be in London at the end of November to launch the McKinsey Education Report (?). It was going to be launched at the OECD in Paris, but the head honcho there can’t make it, so it’s likely to move to London. Sat on the steps by the Pret and stared absently at the screen mounted above the Diwali celebration in Trafalgar Square until I’d finished my mozzarella & tomato croissant (to which I’m oddly addicted). / Walked down Whitehall to Parliament Square talking to Byron. Hung up in front of the Abbey, where I was meeting Susan for the 3pm service. Men in red keep tourists at bay at the gate. We ushered up the left aisle and took our seats on the left side of the transept. It’s a cramped space, for such a large cathedral; you walk a mile down the nave only to be squashed into the transept. You need to arrive early to get a seat in the three rows from which you can see anything . St Paul’s is open and airy and spacious by comparison. Wren’s 17C structure decorated with gold mosaics of men in flowing robes, vs the linear Gothicism of Westminster – built when? In the 1200s, over a couple of centuries? The sermon was in aid of combating leprosy – we have bad memories but good forget-ories, the speaker noted. Leprosy (and lepers) are forgotten, but have by no means disappeared. Someone is newly infected with leprosy every two minutes. I’ll have to steal that angle for my next ALC appeal. What music was not completely traditional was almost atonally 20th century. Still ethereal, but you hesitate about when to sit down, not knowing whether that was the final note of the piece. / Caught the 211 across Westminster and back to Waterloo, stopping in at the Sainsbury’s for ingredients for the biscotti baking spree, and a steak dinner. At home Susan wanted to do some admin before getting going in the kitchen, so read another chapter of Dostoevsky and wrote here.

Later addition: ...I believe we made biscotti later on...


Sat, Oct 30 - Susan's B'day: Vauxhall Ital deli; Tate Britain & Becky; Bocco di Lupo; Social Network

Susan’s Birthday & Halloween in London:  Finished ‘Trip to Timbuktu’, Vauxhall Italian Deli, Tate Britain with Becky, Bocco de Lupo dinner and Gelupo gelato, bus home through the ghouls thronging Charing Cross Rd

Fri, Oct 29 - Hep B shot, ...?....

10.45am 2nd Hep B shot

Greensmith's for peppers and fennel to roast

8.30pm Susan returns from Bruges, has eaten too much

Thur, Oct 28 - Mali Drive OFF, Blists Hill, Train to London, Evening in

Wren admits she's not going to drive to Mali
Wonderful Victorian Industrial Revolution Town-Blists Hill (where Wren is doing play)
Midland GBP10 train via Northampton to Euston
Reading Timbuktu
Lucy's mother arrives
Susan in Bruges
Watched episode of Wallander on iPlayer, skyped with V at 3am

Wed, Oct 27 - Garage, Drive to Shrewsbury, Stew at Wren's, Old Post Office party

Tues, Oct 26 - Hinckley w David, & Wren's Story (tbc!)

Awoke but stayed in bed reading In the Footsteps of Mungo Park (2005 trip retracing the discovery of the Niger by Europeans). David brought me a cuppa tea at 9.30am, and we had some cornflakes downstairs in the living room. Wondered how Wren and Salif were getting on but refrained from calling. I'd texted her last night saying 'hope all cozy' and hadn't yet heard anything back. David told me the story of him and Jude -- and how she'd dropped off the map as soon as Barry (the South African boyfriend returned from romantic exile) had 'forbidden' her from having contact with David. Wondered at this submissive streak in an otherwise very independent and strong-willed woman. D said how J had come on to him -- he wasn't against it, mind you, but it wasn't at his instigation. / Rainy blustery day, so didn't take the walk into town we'd mooted. Drove several towns over to a nice pub (an old smithy, possibly) with the best '2-for-1' lunch in the area: our two mains of mint lamb and steak respectively came to a whopping total of GBP 7. Try to find that in London. / Home and pulled out the France and Spain maps to contemplate the drive down to Morocco and do some back-of-the-envelope costing. D suggested taking the ferry from Portsmouth to Santander, and at about GBP 230 figured that would be a saving over the Dover-Calais ferry plus gas and tolls through France. Liked his broad-brush approach, and estimates of GBP 6 to the gallon of petrol -- maybe GBP 5 for diesel. Diesel is more expensive than Regular in the UK, but cheaper in Europe and Africa. It was apparent D would love to join for the trip. But since his mother's health could deteriorate at any minute, he's committed to staying close to home. / Drove into Hinckley where D dropped off his new Mazda 5 (the sporty one) to have new plates put on, sort out his gap insurance, and iron out something about a payment going through twice. Walked into town (the high street) and dropped by the real estate agent's (D's tenants have stopped paying the rent and are now complaining about a wasp hive) and the bank (Halifax). Walked up and down the pedestrianized main street and popped into some small local department store that had been recently renovated to a 1980's look to pick up crumpets and a bottle of wine. / Home again, and skyped with Vernon. / D made us a mushroom omelette while I half-watched Leonard Cohen, and we were about to start watching Wall-E when Wren called.

The Wren & Salif story:

Mon, Oct 25 - Cleaning Wren's, Salif Keita concert Birmingham, Overnight at David's

Cleaning Wren’s (bathroom scrub, vacuuming stairs & downstairs, more dish washing, shifting recycling outside); muesli & fruit for b’fast, grilled cheese & salad for lunch; comments on hot water (Greenham Common);  3pm skype w Vernon (friend’s memorial); 3.45pm left by rental car for Birmingham (Wren in little black dress, do I look like the future wife of the future president of Mali?); 5.30pm quick coffee in shopping center, then to Town Hall (bumped into band & Aida going out for dinner; no Salif); dropped Wren ‘backstage’ (no Salif) and ambled slowly down New Street to New Street Station where I met David & childhood friend Graham (now IBM global project manager with love of travel, wife & 3 kids) off the train from Coventry at 6.30pm; dinner at ‘pub’ attached to Premier Inn & talk of travel; 7.30pm Town Hall, Wren greeted us by box office & we picked up tix (there was an extra comp for David in the end); Karen & Ruth (short gray hair, had met at TimeShift last summer) & Sara (who’d offered me a place to stay) showed up shortly before start; Karen pulled Wren up to go dance at the side and then up front; then we all (the girls) moved up front to ‘dance’ (Wren the most ‘wildly’, there’s always one at these concerts, ain’t there?) in front of the speakers (there’s a reason nobody’s seated there);  1hr15min of gigging, then pause indicating ‘we’re almost over’ and played till 9.30pm with no dancing on stage; black guy dancing close with Wren in front row; Salif did routine of strutting about stage & saluting / blowing kisses; got crowd on their feet by saying ‘it’s my birthday’ and getting everyone to sing happy birthday and get dancing ‘for him’; Salif, calabash drummer Madou, percussionist Solo (chubby); gymnastic Kora player (with stubby dreds); guitarist  in white (with Eric Clapton solo); other guitarist who got on drums with percussionist every now and then; 2 girls singing & dancing; the guys have been with him for 30 years and 15 years (old and new), the girls are new new (they rotate); after gig went down hall at back, Wren went ahead to ask about letting us in; all fine and we single filed down the hall and past picnic table into ‘green room’ where Salif was sitting in a chair; rose and we all greeted him, then the girls had to get going for their 10.22pm train back to Shrewsbury; me and Dave and Graham stuck around as another posse arrived for photos and signatures (French & Bambara speaking, last name of Keita); then got clear w Aida (the tour manager) that Salif would in fact go home w Wren;  I explained to Salif that we’d go by his hotel to get his valise and then he’d go with Wren; walked to car with Wren and boys to collect my case; Wren back in car to pick up Salif; we walked down to station (Graham pulled my trolley) and stopped at The Sun for a pint (David not drinking); 11.20pm train to Coventry (I didn’t pay); cab to Graham’s for cuppa tea and met Cheryl (like Ch-erub) knitting cool metallic wool scarf; David drove us home about 12.30am. Text-skyped Vernon.

Sun, Oct 24 - Morn at Lucy's, Aft train to Shrewsbury & Wren's

George off to Tennis at 9.30am, Me in bed w TKAM, B’fast tea and toast w Lucy, Boxes w Lucy, Shower & Antje by to pick up bike 1.30pm, 3pm train to Shrewsbury arr 7.30pm, G&T and pasta w Wren (post Blists Hill), New Tricks episode (2x) with quick txt to Vernon in between

Sat, Oct 23 - B'fast at Lucy's, Tea at Adrian's 45A, Lunch w Ian W & Hayward 'Move', Dinner at Lucy's w Doug F & Karen & Antje

Shower,  In bed w L, G, V, Claude & Bill; B’fast of scrambled eggs and pumpernickel; Box or two w Lucy; Noon Tea w Adrian on The Cut, 1.30pm Ian at W’loo, Lunch at Pain Q, Hayward for ‘MoGe’, Bookstore briefly, Home turnaround (chapter of TKAM), Bakerloo to Lucy’s, Dinner (roast) w Doug Fishbone & Karen, Antje, Lucy & George, Overnight at Lucy’s

Fri, Oct 22 - Reading & Post Office; Met Marina; Dr Beckley (Elbow) & Nurse (Hep B); Thai w Kaz, Deidre & Frank, Lucy & Violet

Coffee & muesli w Susan (off to Birkenhead parents tonight by bus); TKAM until about noon (!), post office to mail IDP to Vernon & check on SF parcel & mail forwarding; home & recorded vacc hist; 3pm Nero’s and rd’g maps; 3.30pm met Marina (Mali) at W’loo Costa (not Nero on The Cut); 4pm Dr Beckley for elbow steroid shot (no results from cholesterol yet), 4.30pm Nurse who recorded vacc hist and gave 1st of 3 Hep B shots; email; Bakerloo (v slow after Queens Park), Dinner at Thai on Harrow Rd w Kaz, Deidre & Frank, Lucy & Violet (fun convo, felt relaxed and accepted J ); waited for George to arrive in vain, was at gallery opening at BFI; overnight at Lucy’s

Kaz: innovative MA, Swedish-funded program in London, museums (eg Sir John Soane) and innovative approach to them; can live on 1300/mo in London; lives with 1 (or 2?) musicians – good coz they work hard and aren’t around much; still works at Iyengar ctr but says it’s very political-doesn’t like the people

Deidre: 2nd yr of photography MA; has to do a ‘project’ this yr (what is it?)

Frank: started at Moody’s recently (Sept?) in their ‘consulting’ dept – consulting to banks on risk mgmt; still working on his PhD (at Birkbeck?); not sure Moody’s is where he want s to end up, but is a good ‘look-round’ job

Thur, Oct 21 - Frank Harris, Brit Museum & Design Ctr, Hakasan w Gus

Susan home coz feeling flu-ey still; 10am Frank Harris mtg w Tony George to discuss the flat (he knows nothing – Gabor in City Office does mgmt, he just does lease signing); got SF Sourdough at Konditor & Cooke, dropped by Soho Gym to see if Tim still Spinning there (he is; texted – he leaves for job in NYC end of Nov);  hung w Susan (but feeling antsy & determined to go to BM)- Susan had 4pm interview for Rome job and was going into office for that, then on to Italian class; on way out passed Pret opening w free lunch bag (had just eaten tho); 12.30-14.30 British Museum (Africa Galleries, Rosetta Stone); Store Str & Building Center (archi in London) but Wren’s ‘Future of the World in 100 Objects’ over so browsed bookstore for 1hr;  emailed at cafĂ© down the street; 6pm to Foyle’s & Car Buying (Teach Yourself) guide; ambled up and down Dean-Frith-Greek Streets contemplating restos; 7.40pm met Gus at his office on Soho Sq; he’d booked Hakasan which is just up the street (passed down the alley on the way over from Store St); table only at 10.15pm so had 3 cocktails at the bar, finally some dim sum & squid, then at table just some duck rolls and shrimp hot pot; interesting investment story about Zingo (? Farmville etc), less interesting story about homeless guy in office, remembered Gus’ parents are both dead (dad a long time ago I believe, mother in 2007), kids are good (Grace 11?, twins 8 maybe, one open-hearted and one business like), Grace in private school, twins in state school which is good so they meet poor kids too; dire episode in dark office afterward (elevator kiss, hand to crotch, why not a hand job? Ugh..)

9.30am Awoke shortly after Susan had tried to wake me,  Susan preparing for Rome interview tomorrow,  I read intro to Teaching English Abroad, emailed 10.30-11am (slow connection), lunch of tomato-wensleydale soup and bread. 12.30 headed out to British Museum, caught 176 across Waterloo Bridge down the Strand around Trafalgar Square and up Charing Cross Road (very slow, construction, sunny day, sitting at front next to African gentleman with knees against wall)… tbc

Wed, Oct 20 - Dental Hygienist, Morocco Overland notes ... then??

Emailing & phone calls (?); 11am train to Putney for 11.30am hygienist appt; home at 12.30 to find Susan home (not feeling well); read ‘Morocco Overland’ and took relevant notes, checked route on AA trip planner, while Susan checked emails etc; DINNER?? EVENING??

Tues, Oct 19 - Young Vic tix & W'loo Hlth & Windmill; Stanford's; Dr Faust w Susan & Becky

10am Young Vic for standing ticket to Faust; then accompanied Susan to Dr Beckley for follow up on chest pain and then to St Thomas for cholesterol blood test; back in time to accompany me to lunch in sun at Windmill pub thai;  Stanfords – Mali books, Sahara Overland, maps…browsing & reading while it rained outside;  7pm Susan’s & nibbles w/ Susan & Becky;  7.45pm Faustus; 10pm chips (2 lots) w Susan in bar

Mon, Oct 18 - (Stanfords?)

Susan complaining of chest pains but went to work anyway, got a vmail in the afternoon that she’d gone to St Thomas’ (w secretary) to have them checked out